Tim Walker or the art of turning fashion into a fable

There were a few years when traveling to a city could have one single excuse and, at the same time, justify everything: an exhibition. London was often that. A place to go to look, to keep learning, to sharpen one's eye. At that time, I was very involved in fashion photography, not just through campaign work, but also through research, collecting, and that almost obsessive need to recognize each photographer's unique language.

Tim Walker's exhibition at Somerset House appeared right then, in the middle of that intense period of searching. And it fit perfectly. Because Walker is one of those artists who are instantly recognizable. One image is enough to identify his world. Not so much by a formula, but by an overflowing imagination that turns every photograph into an impossible scene, suspended between childhood, artifice, and fantasy.

"Getting inside a storyteller's head"

The best part of that exhibition wasn't just seeing the finished images, but entering into the internal mechanism of his universe. It wasn't simply about hanging photographs on a wall, but about showing how such a vision comes to be. There were the props, the objects built for the sessions, the models, the sculptural elements, the sketchbooks, the ideas still in an almost primary state before becoming editorial production. All of that made something rare visible: that, in his case, photography begins long before the shutter click.

Tim Walker doesn't construct scenes like someone beautifying an image. He constructs worlds. And that's probably his uniqueness. His photographs don't just respond to brilliant art direction, but to a very specific, almost untamable way of imagining, which transforms an idea into a visual narrative. That's why the title Story Teller suited him so well. More than a fashion photographer, he has always seemed to me a storyteller who uses fashion, sets, gestures, and light as materials for fabricating stories.

It's not a language that I feel close to my own way of seeing or making images. My sensibility lies elsewhere. But precisely because of that, it interests me. Because when a voice is truly its own, it doesn't need to resemble yours to assert itself clearly. And Tim Walker's does. In Spain, there are artists who at times might evoke that scenographic impulse, but in him, there's a very rare mix of sophistication, delirium, and play that is hard to mistake.

From that visit, I also remembered the book: large, striking, almost more of a collector's item than a simple catalog. And perhaps that's the best way to summarize that show. Not as an exhibition of photographs, but as a complete entry into an extraordinarily free mind.